OK, this entry is going to be (mostly) Eric-centric, so if you're here for your Maddie and Isaac fix, jump to the bottom. And if you're on a dial-up connection, you may want to save this for later as most of the pictures here are pretty big.
Anyway, I had a conference in Phoenix in mid-October. We were at the Arizona Biltmore Resort, which is known for a great many things, including architecture in the style of Frank Lloyd Wright and the invention of the Tequila Sunrise. Two weeks after I was there, the McCain campaign was here for their election night events and eventual concession speech.
Sunrise over the mountains.
It may not be on a lake, but I think I could live in this nearby residence...
The entrance to the Arizona Biltmore.
The front facade of the Arizona Biltmore.
The interior gardens and fountain.
Since I was already in Arizona and had never made the trek before, I took the opportunity to head up to the Grand Canyon. I had wanted to do a rim-to-river hike for quite a while, but never found a chance during the ideal October window. Unfortunately, I was unable to get lodging at Phantom Ranch or at Bright Angel Campground, both of which are at the bottom of the canyon. Therefore, I did the only logical thing - rim-to-river-and back, all in one day. Over 17 miles round trip, 4,700 feet of elevation loss and then 4,700 feet back up. It was a grueling trip - 4 hours down, 8 hours back up, but it was definitely incredible. The sights of the canyon are impressive from the rim, but you get a completely different perspective during the hike. Here are a ton of favorite photos from my trip.
I arrived on Thursday evening just after sunset. While I had planned my trip extensively based on trip reports, I needed to see the canyon in person the night before just as a reality check. It you haven't been there, let me just confirm that it is truly amazing. It is hard to grasp the immense scale of the canyon.
October is the ideal month for the hike. From April to September, the temperature in the lower canyon gets well over 100 degrees. In October, the temperature is more reasonable. It was 80-100 for most of the inner canyon hike, and I wasn't really bothered by the heat.
I chose to descend the South Kaibab trail. It is the more direct route from the South Rim to the river. 6.4 miles and 4,740 vertical feet. The South Kaibab trail has no water on it and almost no shade, so it is better to descend this trail and ascend via the Bright Angel Trail, which is longer but has drinkable water every few miles. This photo is just a few minutes in to the hike.
The view from the aptly named "Ooh Ahh Point."
The view from Cedar Ridge. Notice the full moon!
Another view from Cedar Ridge. This is the first "rest stop", about 3 miles in. Everything officially published says this is the furthest you should go on a day hike. In the summer months, I'd fully agree, but I was feeling very good at this point and was eager venture further.
The central feature here is O'Neill Butte.
A closer view of O'Neill Butte.
A good view of the trail. It was clearly marked like this the whole way. Route finding was never an issue.
Just past O'Neill Butte. On the lower right you can just make out the switchbacks down the canyon.
Here they are. These particular switchbacks are known as the Red and Whites. Going down switchbacks isn't so bad, but on the way back up they are interminable.
After the switchbacks, it levels out for a while. It was interesting to see all the different ecosystems after every elevation change. The vegetation would be surprisingly different about every 10 minutes.
There are a number of mule trains that will take riders to the river and back the next day. This was one of the nicer points to encounter the mules. I also encountered them out on some of the ledges which is a little more interesting...
Like here. This is a great view of the inner canyon. You can see the Colorado River and the silver suspension bridge. The circular area at lower center is a mule corral. You can see the path enter a side canyon with trees at the very center here. This is the Bright Angel Campground, and further up the trail is Phantom Lodge, which has beds for 40 hikers, if you can get a reservation.
The view from Panorama Point, shortly before the descent into the inner canyon.
Just to prove I was here.
The hike goes vertical again.
A view of the trail. The South Kaibab trail follows ridge lines and had to be cut from the side of the rock as it descends.
Approaching the black suspension bridge.
The tunnel entrance to the black bridge.
On the middle of the black bridge looking back toward the tunnel entrance. You can see here that the floor on this bridge is made of wood. This way the mules aren't afraid to cross. You have to watch for mules before crossing, as they have right of way.
The bridge is 440 feet long.
A view of the beach from the black bridge. Notice the hikers dipping their feet in the water. Remember that it's all uphill from that point!
A view of the Colorado River curving away.
Note the small lizard on the rock. There were lots of these about on the trail.
This is Bright Angel Campground. Reservations open up 5 months in advance and sell out quickly. You also have to haul your camping gear down and back out, or pay to have it packed out by mule.
Just past the campground is Phantom Ranch. There is a canteen here that serves meals and lemonade. There are 4 bunk houses that sleep a total of 40. This is the best way to break up the trip into multiple days. Unfortunately, reservations open up 19 months in advance and sell out in minutes. So it's extremely difficult to secure a reservation unless you are able to plan well in advance.
Heading back out, here is a view of the silver bridge.
A shelter near the mule corral.
Cacti near the silver bridge.
On the silver bridge.
Looking straight down on the silver bridge. You are up a lot higher than it appears here. The mules will not cross the silver bridge since the floor is only a grate. Probably more than a few hikers, too!
A view back up the river, with the black bridge in the distance.
The view down the river.
A view of both the silver and black bridges. The triangular peak formation to the upper right is called Zoroaster Temple.
Along the river trail, you encounter this boulder. Notice that the trail goes right under it. Also take note of the trees below it for scale.
Perhaps this will add a little perspective.
The hike back up was nothing like the hike down. It took me twice as long to return as for the descent and felt even longer. The elevation gain is relentless and the switchbacks are killers. The South Rim is 7,000 feet above sea level, so the air was pretty thin for a Minnesotan like me, which just added to the fatigue. Needless to say, I took a lot fewer pictures on the way up. If I could do one thing over (besides getting reservations at Phantom Ranch to break up the trip), I would have brought a small pocket camera in addition to my good camera, which bounced around way too much to leave around my neck while I hiked.
Half way back up is a wonderful oasis called Indian Garden. The trees provide shade and there is fresh water piped in. Here you can see the mule hitching posts.
Another view from Indian Garden.
One of the shelters at Indian Garden.
A look back as the interminable switchbacks take you up the canyon. One thing to note is that the trails were always wide enough that I never felt uncomfortable with the vertical exposure.
A nice view of the rock strata.
Running out of daylight. Note the trail at the bottom center. Where it disappears into the green trees at center is Indian Garden.
Still gaining altitude...
One last view as I neared the top.
On my way back to Phoenix. Had to get a picture of the saguaro cacti for the kids!
And to reward you all for working through that, here are Isaac and Maddie (I mean Batman and Tinkerbell) at Halloween. Thanks for indulging me with all these photos!
